True Cost of Fast Fashion

Some people feel that sustainable design and ethical fashion reduces the fun, excitement and quality of clothing. Knowing that the product are created with a piece of unique material can potentially decrease ethical behaviour. In fact, more information tends to reduce the influence of ethical issues due to the complexity of the problem itself.

Safi the Brand is a sustainable fashion label based in London, that partnered with Incalpaca, a Peruvian sustainable alpaca wool supplier that produces incredibly soft fabrics, and with Ecobotoes, a Brazilian producer of sustainable buttons and buckles. Most sustainable clothing brands are going for the practical, minimal, basic and sometimes genderless look. Safi wants to associate sustainable clothing with uniqueness, quality, elegance, and femininity, and have this be what encapsulates the excitement and reassurance of the quality of the product.

Co-Founder, Sabrina Nascimbeni, tells us all about the true cost of fast fashion, and how she aims to make Safi truly sustainable.

Tell us a bit about your label. What drove you to take a sustainable, human rights-based approach to high-end fashion?

Safi is a clothing brand that focuses on fitted and sustainable designs. We aim to produce our garments thinking about who made it, the impact it has throughout production as well as an end product, and how it will last. We are transparent about our supply chain, and our goal is to be able to give back to the people that made our garments as we get our business running. We are still brainstorming ideas on how to best do this, as we want to truly understand the needs of those along our supply chain.

At the beginning of last year (2018), we watched a documentary called ‘The True Cost’, This was what really educated us on the impact of Fast Fashion and inspired us to shop more ethically or second-hand. We became more aware of not only the terrible quality of the garments used, how long they take to biodegrade (if ever), but also the dangerous incidents that happened and continue to happen to those that are part of the production process of fast fashion brands. We were devastated once we found out about the 2013 Rana Plaza Collapse and from then on, we agreed to stop shopping at retailers that promote fast fashion.

Photo of Safi the Brand Co-Founders, Sabrina Nascimbeni and Sofia Galanek wearing Safi the Brand coats.

 How did you come up with the concept for Safi?

As winter was approaching, we were starting to search for winter coats and noticed that both high-street fashion as well as many ethical brands, lacked fitted tailoring in their designs, especially in outerwear. We realised that many of the clothing on the market lacked design that flattered the female figure, therefore, we wanted to offer clothes that fit well but also make sure they resonated with our sustainable values. 

 

Have you seen a shift in consumer demand for ethical fashion over your time in the industry?

We have heard about it in the news and definitely have a few friends who have decided to swap and shop second-hand. However, not enough to make a change. There needs to be more pressure on consumers but also more education instead of shaming, as not all consumers are always very aware of the world of fast fashion and its impact. I don’t think most people realise the real negative impact and dangers fast fashion has, despite the media outrage.

 

Where do you find inspiration for your collection?

Most of it comes from the 60’s style, either from films, magazines or clothes we see at vintage stores. We tend to pick elements we like and adapt them to our own tastes and modern style, for example, taking away frills or big padded shoulders. 

From a sustainability point of view, we take inspiration from brands like Veja, of which we truly admire the ethics in the choice of materials and respect of the people along their supply chain.

 

What specific measures do you take to ensure your clothing is produced with respect for both sustainability and the rights of your workers in Peru?

We sourced our suppliers (Incalpaca) through a sustainability consultant as they are well known for their efforts in sustainability (controlling levels of pollution and workers rights, etc.) and we sourced our manufacturers through Peru Moda, a sustainable Trade Show. We hope to be able to visit the facilities soon in person to meet the people we work with. In the meantime, we trust our partners as they both are very transparent on their websites about their efforts towards sustainability. . 

 

How do you ensure transparency across your supply chains as your business expands into new markets? 

At the moment, this is something we are working on. We are still focusing on getting our small collection out there and gathering enough funds to support the production of a small stock. Expansion is the next step, but first, we must focus on the present. When the time will come, we will ensure transparency across our supply chains by visiting in person and working with certified partners.

 

What do you envision for the future of Safi? 

A lot more variety of products, we would love to create clothes that, just like our coats, are staple items to be suitable for multiple occasions, both classy and casual.. We would love to continue focusing on  empowering women, workers’ rights and giving back to environmental causes in the best way possible as our capacities grow.

 

What have been some of the critiques you have received on launching your own sustainable brand? 

We have had a few people question why we have not chosen to source our alpaca wool from British suppliers, to stay local. However, we wanted to support the Peruvian culture and tradition, but also artisanal skillset, of working with alpaca wool.

Another criticism we get often is the price of our products being inaccessible to most people. This is perhaps one of the biggest challenges of going into sustainable fashion, to be able to offer prices that are more and more accessible to others. However, quality products are pricey because they are made by high quality materials and skilled tailors. Alpaca wool is a luxurious and beautiful material, and unfortunately it is not accessible for everyone. Nonetheless, we would love to move our focus onto other items of clothing so as to be able to offer more affordable price ranges.

Photo of Alpacas in London, UK.

How did you overcome this?  

This is not something we have overcome but we do try to make it as clear as possible as to why this is the path we have taken. We like to remind them that we are taking a step at a time and remind ourselves that it is also hard to meet all needs, especially as this is all very new to us. 

 

Can fashion ever be truly sustainable?

I think if we educate consumers enough that they understand what a luxury it is to have a new garment, they will be ready to pay for something more expensive and be wiser on their consumption choices, therefore, buying less but better quality. I don’t truly believe we need to stop consuming, but we do need to consume less. After all, no consumption isn’t a sustainable option as it provides so many jobs. 

 

How would you explain the importance of brands like yours making steps to become more ethical and sustainable to someone who isn't well versed in what that means?

I would start by explaining the truth about the fast fashion industry and the impact it has on the planet and on people, then explain what we do, how we do it and why. 

 

What do you wish you could be doing more of in the sustainability space and what steps are you taking to do that? 

We would love to give back to the people that will make our garments to improve their lives depending on the needs they have. At the moment, we are still starting up but we plan to give a small percentage of our sales towards a cause that affects them, as well as acknowleding the individuals who made our products as part of our packaging. Currently, we take more of an environmental focus, giving back a small percentage towards planting a tree on every purchase through our website. 

 

Any tips for people wanting to launch their own sustainable fashion brand?

I would advise to start by educating yourself first on the true cost of fast fashion. Then envision your own understanding of what sustainability means, as this is a multifaceted and complex term. Once your values are clear to you, you can apply these to your designs and start creating!

What personal experiences have you had that have made you care about your impact?

When I first went to Brazil in the pursuit of making the samples for Safi we currently hold, I had the chance to attend loads of events about sustainable fashion, materials and ethics. This educated me more on the danger of fashion as well as the positive impact of taking action in the field. Especially talking to people who have been into the sustainable fashion space for years, was enlightening and inspiring.

Photo of Safi the Brand Co-Founders, Sabrina Nascimbeni and Sofia Galanek wearing Safi the Brand coats.

Head to https://www.safi-the-brand.com/ for further info/ to purchase.

Go follow https://www.instagram.com/safi_thebrand/ on Instagram

WORDS: SARAH RAMANTANIS
PHOTOGRAPHY: SABRINA NASCIMBENI